Sunday, 16 December 2012

Dandy In Aspic meets Barbara Hulanicki




 Myself, my girlfriend and Barbara Hulanicki, Brighton, 15.12.12

Yesterday, my girlfriend and I met Barbara Hulanicki, legendary fashion designer and founder of Biba. Ms. Hulanicki was signing copies of her newest book Seamless From Biba at Brighton Museum.




The signing was a part of current exhibition at Brighton Museum, Biba and Beyond.






I am not going to talk about the exhibition, as it's already been covered well on other blogs, but it is a must-see for anybody interested in 1960's fashion.
The choice of Brighton as a location for this exhibition is not an accident. Barbara Hulanicki has strong links to the city. She grew up here, and she studied at Brighton School of Art (now part of University of Brighton).
Brighton also had its own Biba boutique between 1966 and 1968.


 
Poster by graphic artist Chris Price (long-time collaborator of  Barbara Hulanicki, who  contributed largely to Seamless From Biba) comemorating opening of Biba in Brighton in 1966 (first appeared in the book SInBiba in 2004)



Seamless From Biba is a fascinating account of Barbara Hulanicki's hugely succesful post-Biba career. The book contains forewords from long-time friends and collaborators Twiggy, Chris Blackwell, Molly Parkin and Felicity Green.  There are plenty of amazing photographs as well as 'verbal vignettes' by Delisia and Chris Price. Just like the exhibition, the book is a great  account of the career of Barabara Hulanicki - one of the most influential designers of the 20th century.




Our signed copy of Seamless From Biba. We had a lovely little chat with Ms, Hulanicki. She said to my girlfriend: 'I love your face, it's amazing'. Now, isn't it nice?...



Dandy In Aspic meets Mick Farren










Mick Farren was a well-known character on the 1960's London psychedelic scene. Although mostly remembered as a leader of proto-punk band The Deviants (A.K.A The Social Deviants), he was also an editor of radical underground newspaper International Times, a writer for NME, a doorman at the UFO club in 1967, and author of several novels.
Last night The Deviants - band Mick Farren has been fronting for (on and off) 37 years, played a free gig at Lewes Con Club.

For those, who don't know, Lewes is a sleepy, yet very picturesque village in East Sussex, about twenty minutes by bus from Brighton. It is a kind of place where old, posh people come to retire (It's not all bad, though - psych hero Arthur Brown is a resident). Perhaps for that reason, Lewes has unusually high number of good vintage/antique shops, and charity shops are one of the best ones in Sussex. What Lewes also has is Con Club. Con is short for 'Constitutional', not 'Conservative' as I initially thought. It is an easy mistake to make, seeing as the bar area is decorated with dusty bookshelves and paintings of Winston Churchill. The perspective of seeing a psychedelic lightshow and the band fronted by one of the most radical hippies of 1960's in such a venue sounded interesting, to say the least...

Mick Farren formed The Social Deviants in London in 1967. They shortened their name to The Deviants shortly before releasing their debut album Ptooff!!.Their sound could be described as raw, scuzzy garage rock - an attempt to be an English version of MC5. Although a lot of critics at the time claimed Mick couldn't sing, he certainly had a stage presence. With his huge afro and tight velvet flares, he was a quintessential 1960's rock star, and the music of The Deviants was few years ahead of their time.



Mick Farren onstage with The Deviants in Hyde Park, summer 1969


The Deviants playing guerilla gig at the stairs of St. Paul's Cathedral, May 1969



Mick Farren with The Deviants circa 1969


Mick with a friend, circa 1969








I am Coming Home - great song from Deviants' first album. Remember, this came out before The Stooges!

 Although Ptooff!! - initially self-released - was picked up by Decca, it received very little attention. The original Deviants were going for two years playing gigs around London, some of them pretty high profile.

The Social Deviants at UFO Roundhouse, 1967 (poster by Martin Sharp)




In 1969 The Deviants, along with Joe Cocker, Arthur Brown and John Lee Hooker supported Led Zeppelin in Roundhouse (poster by Alan Aldridge).

As well as fronting The Deviants, Mick Farren was also an editor of radical counterculture newspaper International Times.











Some of the covers of International Times (via their online archive)

Very radical in his views, Mick Farren was regular protester and was frequently arrested. When in 1967 Jagger and Richards got sentenced for drug offences, Farren took it to the streets and staged the protest outside the offices of News Of The World - a tabloid responsible for a set-up of two Stones.  Farren got arrested and beaten up by the police.


Mick Farren at the protest during OZ trial, 1971



He also participated in infamous incident David Frost's chat show in 1970, during which Frost got into heated argument with  Jerry Rubin after Mick Farren and others, who were speaking on behalf of the counterculture, invaded the stage.



 

When The Deviants split up in 1969 (the ex-members formed  Pink Fairies - a band which came to considerable success in the 1970's) Mick Farren recorded a solo album, before quitting music for a few years. During that time he concentrated on organising music festivals and writing for the NME. In one of his articles, titled The Titanic Sails At Dawn from 1975, he correctly predicted the dawn of punk music. In the early 1980's, he moved to New York.
Mick was also a very prolific writer who penned over thirty books - which included many science fiction novels, a history of rock poster (Get On Down, first published in 1976), a history of black leather jacket as a symbol of rebellion, and his most famous book - Give The Anarchist A Cigarette (first published in 2001) an autobiographical account of Farren's days on London scene in late 1960's/early 1970's.

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Give The Anarchist A Cigarette is probably one of the best and the funniest 1960's autobiographies I've ever read. It is a simple must-read for anyone interested in 1960's London.


Mick on the cover of The Daily Telegraph Magazine issue dedicated to underground press, 1973

In the past three decades, he would occasionally reform The Deviants. In 2011, the original 1960's line-up played 'Spirit of 71' stage at Glastonbury festival. It was the same line-up that played Lewes Con Club on Friday.
It turned out to be a fun night. Although Mick Farren looked slightly unwell, the band still projected a lot of energy. Wife of the bassist spotted me and my girlfriend in the audience (which wasn't hard - anybody younger that forty at that gig stuck out like a sore thumb), complemented our look, and invited us backstage to meet Mick Farren. She wanted to show him that, as she put it, 'young people still dig his shit'.



My girlfriend, Mick Farren and myself. Lewes, 14.12.12 


He seemed pleased with that as well. We had a brief chat about recent documentary about 1967 UFO scene titled Technicolour Dream in which Farren is one of the talking heads.


Edited to note: Sadly, Mick Farren passed away few months after. In July 2013, he collapsed onstage while playing a gig with The Deviants at Borderline in London, and died shortly after. We were certainly lucky to have met this amazing character in person, albeit very briefly. Read great tribute to Mick by his friend Charles Shaar Murray in The Guardian.

Saturday, 15 December 2012

London In The Sixties by Rainer Metzger







In the recent few years, there has been a surge in numbers of new publications about 1960's London. The subject continues to fascinate fashion historians (like Richard Lester or Paul Gorman), pop historians (Barry Miles, who must have published at least a dozen books which touched upon a subject one way or another) or historians in general (Dominic Sandbrook, Jonathon Green, Arthur Marwick). Then, of course, there are all the photographers' albums, Taschen coffee table books, biographies and autobiographies of designers, pop stars, film stars and etc. London In The Sixties - Rainer Metzger's book published earlier this year by Thames & Hudson , does not quite fall under any of these categories, and although it is probably the closest in spirit to a coffee table book, it offers far more in-depth critical analysis. It is an ambitious attempt of analising every major form of art and culture that was happening in 1960's London - art, design, fashion, pop music, cinematography, theatre, literature, architecture and television. With 342 illustrations on 365 pages it does manage to get a point across really well. The book is a part of the series by Thames and Hudson about revolutionary cities in revolutionary (in cultural, not political sense) times. Previous books include: Berlin In The Twenties, Munich - Its Golden Age of Art And Culture (both by Metzger), Paris Between The Wars, and Vienna 1900 and The Heroes Of Modernism. Given the main subject of previous publications, it is not surprising that Rainer Metzger devotes a lot of space to painting and graphic design. The works of Richard Hamilton, Peter Blake, Eduardo Paolozzi, David Hockney, Bridget Riley, Pauline Boty are thoroughly analised and put in a social context. Same goes for illustrations of Alan Aldridge, Martin Sharp or Hapshash and The Coloured Coat. There is a competent review of cinema -  from early 1960's kitchen sink dramas - films of Tony Richardson, John Shlesinger and Karel Reisz through, of course, Blow-Up and swinging comedies of Richard Lester to decadent excesses of Donald Cammell's Perfomance. The importance of fashion is outlined through mentions of Mary Quant, John Stephen, Ossie Clark, King's Road boutiques and 'obligatory' images of mini-skirted dolly birds  strolling down Carnaby Street. Rainer Metzger also takes a look at the brutalist architecture of Erno Goldfinger , television programs such as The Avengers and The Prisoner, Germaine Greer's The Female Eunuch, The Anti-Vietnam protests and rise of counterculture , and many other cultural events that shaped 1960's London. Then, of course, there's the Pop Music. In this section, quite a lot of (and by quite a lot, I mean slightly too much) space is devoted to The Beatles. Let's face it, The cultural importance of  the Fab Four had been written about to death, and for some readers any mention of it is an instant page turner. What's more, there are some mistakes in the chapters about pop music. For example this photo on page 175:


  
It is captioned as 'The Kinks, c. 1967'. But actually, the photo is from 1976, when The Kinks were promoting their album Schoolboys In Disgrace (Hence the uniforms) released that year. John Dalton and John Gosling (the bearded ones on the photo) joined the band in 1969 and 1971 respectively, and were not in the line-up of The Kinks in 1967.
Similar mistake is on the page 223, where this photo of  Mick is dated 'January, 1969'.




But, in reality, the photo is from 1972, and I know it because Mick is wearing Ossie Clark stage outfit custom-made by Ossie himself especially for that 1972 American tour. Also, The Stones did not tour in January 1969, in fact they did not play any gigs between Rock n' Roll Circus (December 1968 - it was Brian Jones' last gig with The Stones) and Free Concert in Hyde Park (July 1969 - Mick Taylor's first gig).

Ok, so these are not massive mistakes, but any kind of mistake is surprising in such a high-profile publication. Perhaps Rainer Metzger - an Art History professor at University of Karlsruhe - was not that familiar with Pop history. Or maybe his team of researchers had let him down. Either way, it is a proof that you can't always trust what you read, no matter how respectable the publication might be.

The book could be described as 'Swinging London for Dummies' - if you have a good knowledge about 1960's London , there is little chance that this book will tell you something you don't already know. Still, it has enough great photographs to make it enjoyable. Some of the images might be interesting for readers of this blog..


 

   
Early incarnation of Granny Takes A Trip, circa 1966.






Michael Rainey outside his boutique Hung On You





Feature about Granny Takes a Trip and Hung On You from Nova magazine






 Cover of OZ magazine from April 1967, designed by Martin Sharp.


 


   Ray Brooks and Carol White in Cathy Come Home (1966)- an uber-depressing and brutally realistic debut feature of director Ken Loach. The film tells a story of working class family which, as a result of various misfortunes, is forced to live a life of poverty and homelessness. This rarely mentioned but nevertheless important film highlighted many social issues of the time, and served as a sad reminder, that for most of the people in  1960's Britain, life was not ''Swinging' at all.  The surprising inclusion of it in the chapter about movies shows that Rainer Metzger tried to avoid easy cliches and explore the darker side of the 1960's.




  
Chair by Allen Jones, 1969




Eduardo Paolozzi, The City of The Circle And Square, 1963-1966.



Eduardo Paolozzi, Signs of Death and Decay in the Skies, 1969-1970.





Bridget Riley inside her installation Continuum, 1963




Poster for This Is Tomorrow - a very influential 1956 exhibition in Whitechapel Art Gallery which predicted direction art and design would take in 1960's.



Overall, London In The Sixties is a really enjoyable book, and I'd recommend it to anybody interested in the subject. It would also make a great Christmas present...    

Saturday, 8 December 2012

Suki Poitier modelling for Ossie Clark, 1968









Too good not to post it...a photo of Suki Poitier (third from the left) modelling for Ossie Clark's Quorum in 1968. I am not sure whether the male models are also wearing Ossie Clark's designs, but, whoever made them, these are very fine examples of the Peacock Style (gent on the far right, that coat is amazing!) and psychedelic/posh hippie style (two other models).


(Photo from personal collection of Ms. Jayme Franklin)

Friday, 7 December 2012

Binder, Edwards & Vaughn








Binder, Edwards & Vaughn were a design group specialising in psychedelic murals and paintings. They were active in London between 1965 and 1967, and during that short period they received a lot of attention from press, most notably The Sunday Times, and they attracted 'hip'  clientele - Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr, London boutiques Dandie Fashions and Lord John and many others.
Their brand of psychedelia was characteristic for its rejection of Art Nouveau as an influence. They tried to make their work unique and forward-looking.
Doug Binder, Dudley Edwards and David Vaughn met in Bradford Art College where they studied in the early sixties. Binder and Edwards main designers, while Vaughn took on the role of a manager. Dudley Edwards remembers: The Input between me and Doug was 50/50. To begin with the earliest influences were the panted door fronts in the Asian ghettos near Bradford Art College. Those doorways glowed like gems in the dark. We also loved the dissonant color combinations they used. It was similar to the effect that Thelonious Monk would get on the piano. (...) There was also an influence of certain Marvel comics, like the backgrounds in Steve Ditko's "Dr. Strange" (Norman Hathaway, Dan Nadel, Electrical Banana, p 65).






Article in The Sunday Times Magazine, 1966. From left Doug Binder, David Vaughn and Dudley Edwards.



Binder, Edwards and Vaughn moved to London in the mid-1960's and set up a studio on Gloucester Avenue. They started out from painting and selling furniture. One of their earliest clients was their Gloucester Avenue neighbour, photographer David Bailey, whom they tricked into buying a painted chest of drawers by 'accidentally' displaying it right outside his front door. We thought, If we put a painted chest of drawers on David Bailey's doorstep in the middle of the night, it'll be the first thing he sees in the morning and he's bound to want it. It worked! (Hathaway, Nadal, p 65). Soon after they began exporting their painted furniture to USA, Canada and Belgium.
They also began beyond the furniture buisness. A design group Wolff Olins commissioned them to paint the facade of their studio.





 The address was number 81, so we used a combination of numbers and words, '8ONE' where the 'O' served a dual function as both a digit and a letter, all portrayed in 20th Century Fox style (Hathaway, Nadal, p 65).
They also started painting cars. They have painted a 1960 Buick convertible.





 The car have captured attention of The Kinks, who have used it for a photo on a cover of their 1966 'Sunny Aftenoon' EP.





The cover was noticed by Tara Browne, who commissioned Binder, Edwards and Vaughn to paint his AC Shelby Cobra....




...and a facade of his new boutique, Dandie Fashions


1967
Through Browne, they have met Paul McCartney , who commissioned them to paint his piano.


1967

Other famous projects by Binder, Edwards and Vaughn was a mural for Lord John boutique on Carnaby Street..



  1967

and  a mural for fashion departament of Woodlands 21 store.


1965

Binder, Edwards and Vaughn parted ways in mid-1967. Dudley Edwards, who struck a friendship with Paul McCartney, was commissioned to do some more work for a Beatle. Paul called and asked if I was free, and would I like to stay at his place and paint a mural for him. Stash (Stanislas Klossowski De Rola) was staying there as well, so it was just the three of us. A lot of the time I got the feeling Paul wasn't really bothered with me doing a mural, really. He just wanted a mate around. So every time I started painting Paul would say, 'Let's go off to a studio and lay off some tracks' or 'Let's go to a nightclub' (Hathaway, Nadal, p 66)..
Edwards also did a mural for Ringo Starr.



 Edwards' mural for Ringo, 1967.


Dudley Edwards formed a buisness partnership with Mike McInnerney, an art editor of International Times. They did a few projects together, of which the most impressive one was the mural for The Flying Dragon Cafe in King's Road.


 
1968


After that Dudley Edwards went into designing poster art. He is still a graphic designer today.

Because Binder, Edwards & Vaughn did not work  within a usual popular media, like album covers, posters or even ads, their work is not very well remembered today. But between 1965 and 1967, they were called 'The Beatles of the art world' and during their short existence , they had a tremendous impact on visual culture in Swinging London of the 1960's.


For the full story of Binder, Edwards and Vaughn (and more examples of their artwork) read 'Electrical Banana' by Norman Hathaway and Dan Nadel.